Choosing the Right Print Surface

When I first started 3D printing, I assumed the build surface was just… the flat part the plastic sticks to. I figured it didn’t really matter as long as it was level.

Turns out, the print surface is one of the most important (and sometimes overlooked) parts of a 3D printer. It controls:

• How well your first layer sticks

• How easily parts come off

• The texture of the bottom of your print

• How long you can print before needing to replace or repair it

Over the years, I’ve tested just about every common print surface out there — from plain glass to exotic G10 sheets — and each one has its strengths and quirks.

1. G10 (Garolite)

What it is:G10 is a fiberglass laminate sheet, originally used in circuit boards and industrial applications. In 3D printing, it’s become popular for printing certain high-temperature and engineering filaments.

My experience:I first tried G10 while fighting with nylon prints. On glass and PEI, nylon either wouldn’t stick at all or would weld itself so hard I thought I’d break my bed removing it. With G10, nylon stuck just enough during printing, then popped off cleanly when cool.

Pros:

• Excellent adhesion for nylon, polycarbonate, and other engineering filaments.

• Very durable — mine still looks great after hundreds of prints.

• Works without glue stick for many filaments.

Cons:

• Not as great for PLA or PETG (adhesion can be inconsistent).

• Surface finish is plain and matte — no fancy textures.

• Requires clamping or adhesive to mount if your printer doesn’t have a magnetic plate system.

Best for: Nylon, polycarbonate, ABS blends, and other high-temp materials.

2. Smooth PEI Sheet

What it is:A sheet of Polyetherimide bonded to a steel spring sheet or directly to the bed. Smooth PEI has a slick, glassy surface.

My experience:This is my go-to for most filaments. PLA, ABS, and PETG stick very well when the bed is hot, and most parts release themselves when it cools. It’s also easy to clean with isopropyl alcohol.

Pros:

• Reliable adhesion for most common filaments.

• Clean, glossy finish on the bottom of parts.

• Easy to clean and maintain.

Cons:

• PETG can bond too strongly and pull chunks out if you’re not careful — I use a glue stick as a release layer.

• Can scratch if you’re rough with a scraper.

Best for: PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, flexible filaments (with some prep).

3. Textured PEI Sheet

What it is:Same base material as smooth PEI, but with a powder-coated, textured finish.

My experience:I love textured PEI for functional prints. The rough surface hides first-layer inconsistencies and gives parts a nice matte texture that’s more scratch-resistant. It’s also much more forgiving with PETG.

Pros:

• PETG releases easily.

• Hides imperfections in first layer.

• Durable — scratches are less visible.

Cons:

• Slightly less “grip” than smooth PEI for some filaments.

• Can’t get a perfectly glossy part bottom.

Best for: PETG, ASA, ABS, and large functional parts.

4. Glass

What it is:Tempered glass plate, sometimes coated with materials like borosilicate or carborundum.

My experience:Glass was my first print surface. It’s dead flat and gives a beautiful glossy bottom layer with PLA, but adhesion can be hit-or-miss without adhesives.

Pros:

• Perfectly flat.

• Glossy bottom finish.

• Easy to clean.

Cons:

• Poor adhesion for some filaments without glue/hairspray.

• Heavy — not ideal for printers with moving beds.

• Parts can sometimes “pop” off mid-print during rapid cooling.

Best for: PLA and other non-warping materials, decorative prints.

5. Other Surfaces I’ve Tried

• BuildTak / PrintBite: Great grip, but too aggressive with PETG. Works well for PLA/ABS.

• Kapton Tape: Excellent for ABS on heated beds, but delicate and easily damaged.

• Blue Painter’s Tape: Cheap and works for PLA, but wears quickly.

• Magnetic Flex Plates (various coatings): The convenience of popping parts off without tools is hard to beat.

Quick Comparison Table

Surface	Best Materials	Finish	Adhesion Strength	Release Ease	Durability
G10	Nylon, PC, ABS blends	Matte	Strong (for high-temp filaments)	Easy after cooling	High
Smooth PEI	PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA	Glossy	Strong	Moderate	Medium
Textured PEI	PETG, ASA, ABS	Matte textured	Medium-Strong	Easy	High
Glass	PLA	Glossy	Weak-Medium	Easy (when cooled)	High
BuildTak	PLA, ABS	Matte	Strong	Hard	Medium
Kapton	ABS	Glossy	Medium-Strong	Medium	Low
Painter’s Tape	PLA	Matte	Medium	Easy	Low

My Recommendations

• If you mostly print PLA/PETG, start with smooth PEI and add a textured sheet for flexibility.

• If you print nylon or polycarbonate, keep a sheet of G10 on hand.

• If you want perfectly glossy bottoms and don’t mind using adhesives, glass is still great.

• If you print a wide range of filaments, consider a magnetic quick-swap system so you can change surfaces without re-leveling constantly.